How to remodel a bathroom in the right order

A successful bathroom remodel moves from planning and demolition to rough plumbing, waterproofing, tile and final fixtures. Following this exact sequence prevents ruined materials and keeps contractors working efficiently. Doing things out of order can mean torn out drywall and wasted money.

Set a realistic budget for a bathroom remodel

Before tearing out a vanity, you need a firm grasp of the costs. Material prices add up quickly, and labor takes a large share of any budget.

In the 2023 American Housing Survey, owners reported a median spend of $5,000 on bathroom remodels done in 2021 to 2023, rounded to the nearest $100, across 7.5 million projects. That figure can include simple cosmetic updates as well as complete teardowns. Moving plumbing lines pushes the total much higher. Expanding the footprint of the room adds major framing costs.

Labor and materials both move the total, so get written quotes before you commit.

Decide early what you can comfortably spend. Keep a reserve fund for unexpected problems hidden behind the walls. A small leak often causes structural rot that you only spot after demolition.

Plan the layout and choose fixtures early

Start by mapping out where every piece will go. Leaving the toilet, sink and shower in their original spots saves a significant amount of money. Moving a toilet drain requires breaking up a concrete slab or cutting through floor joists. Swapping a tub for a large walk in shower demands changes to the framing and the drain size.

Order your main materials before picking up a sledgehammer. Supply chain delays can stall a project for weeks. Plumbers need the exact specifications of your shower valve to install the pipes correctly. You also need to know how wide the vanity is so the rough plumbing hits the exact center of the sink.

Make a firm choice on the shower enclosure. Knowing if a one piece shower insert is going in helps dictate the framing plan. A heavy custom glass door requires extra wood blocking in the walls to hold the hinges. Decide on the details now so the trades can prepare for them.

Strip the room and check for hazards

Demolition takes a room down to the studs. Rent a small dumpster for the driveway. Shut off the water supply and drain the lines. Disconnect the electrical circuits at the breaker box.

Remove the toilet, sink, tub and all the old drywall. Use a pry bar and a reciprocating saw to cut away stubborn nails. Taking the walls down completely allows a clear view of the plumbing and wiring.

Older houses require care during this stage. The EPA says homes built before 1978 are more likely to have lead based paint, and renovation that disturbs painted surfaces in older homes can create a hazard. Even small projects can spread lead dust through the house.

The EPA says the RRP rule generally does not apply to homeowners working on their own home. However, it recommends lead safe work practices or a lead safe certified contractor for homes built before 1978. Dust containment and proper protective gear keep the rest of the house clean.

Once the walls are open, inspect the wood framing. Look for water stains, mold or rot around the tub and the toilet flange. Replace any soft wood before moving forward.

Schedule the rough in plumbing and electrical

Rough in work covers all the pipes and wires hidden inside the walls. This stage usually needs a licensed pro. Plumbers and electricians know the local building codes. Permits vary by locality, so check with your city building department before anyone starts work.

The plumber runs new supply lines and positions the shower valve. They also set the drains and vent pipes. The electrician pulls wire for the lighting, exhaust fan and outlets.

Electrical code generally calls for GFCI protection near the sink, so ask your electrician what your local code requires. Route the exhaust fan duct directly to the outside roof or wall. Venting it into the attic can push moisture into the house framing.

Install extra wood blocking between the wall studs now. Solid wood is necessary to support heavy grab bars, a floating vanity or a large mirror.

Do not close the walls yet. In most areas an inspector must approve the rough in work, so confirm with your building department. They verify the electrical load and check the pipes for leaks under pressure. Passing this inspection clears the way for drywall and cement board.

Seal the walls and floor with proper waterproofing

The wet areas require specialized backing. Standard drywall turns to mush inside a shower. Use cement board or a specialized foam backer board for the tub surround and shower walls.

Apply a waterproofing layer over the backer board before any tile goes up. Some installers roll on a liquid rubber membrane. Others use thinset mortar to stick a waterproof sheet membrane to the walls and floor. The corners and seams get extra attention with special waterproof tape.

A properly waterproofed shower pan catches any water that gets past the grout and directs it down the drain. Test the pan by filling it with water and following the membrane maker's instructions for how long to let it sit.

You can hang standard drywall in the rest of the bathroom. Tape the drywall seams, apply joint compound and sand them smooth. Clean all the dust off the walls before starting the tile.

Install the tile, vanity and toilet

Tile work takes patience and exact measurements. You need a wet saw to cut ceramic or porcelain cleanly. Start with the shower walls.

Lay out the pattern to avoid tiny slivers of tile in the corners. Work from the bottom up. Use plastic spacers to keep the grout lines straight and even.

Move to the bathroom floor next. Large format floor tiles require a perfectly flat subfloor. A level floor prevents puddles and makes the vanity sit flat.

Once the thinset mortar cures, apply the grout and wash away the haze with a sponge. Seal the grout lines to prevent future stains.

Bring in the vanity cabinet and attach it to the wall studs. The sink top goes on next. Quartz and solid surface materials resist stains better than natural marble. Attach the faucet and connect the trap to the wall drain.

The toilet goes in last. Sitting the toilet on top of the finished floor tile ensures the wax ring seals tightly against the closet flange. Bolt it down gently to avoid cracking the porcelain.

Choose water saving fixtures for the finish stage

WaterSense labeled fixtures manage water flow much better than older models. Using less water saves money on utility bills and eases demand on local water supplies.

The EPA's WaterSense program labels water efficient products. Look for the WaterSense label on the box when buying finish plumbing.

• WaterSense labeled toilets use 1.28 gallons per flush or less, while older toilets can use as much as 6 gallons.
• WaterSense labeled bathroom faucets use a maximum of 1.5 gallons per minute, against a standard flow of 2.2 gallons per minute.
• WaterSense labeled showerheads must use no more than 2.0 gallons per minute.

A modern toilet flushes waste easily on very little water.

Faucets and showerheads rely on aerators to keep the pressure feeling strong. Lower hot water use also saves energy.

Complete the final finishes and the punch list

The last stage ties the visual elements together. Prime and paint the drywall before bringing in the clean white fixtures. Use a high quality paint designed to resist moisture. You can figure out how much paint you need by measuring the square footage of the walls.

Install the baseboards and the door trim. Hang the mirror and attach the towel bars. The electrician returns to install the light fixtures, switch plates and the exhaust fan cover. Turn the main water supply back on and test every connection.

Walk through the room and make a punch list. This is a list of tiny defects to fix before calling the project finished. Look for a loose cabinet hinge, a missing bead of silicone caulk or a scratch in the paint.